AHA, BHA, and PHA Explained by Skin Type: How to Choose the Right Exfoliant

Exfoliation is an important step in skincare, but using the wrong type can easily damage your skin barrier. AHA, BHA, and PHA are chemical exfoliants that remove dead skin cells, improve texture, and support clearer skin. Although they sound similar, each one works differently and is suited to different skin types.

AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid)
AHA works on the surface of the skin. It helps loosen and remove dead skin cells that cause rough texture, dullness, and flakiness. Because AHA attracts moisture, it is best suited for dry, dull, or sun-damaged skin. Common AHAs include glycolic acid and lactic acid.
If you have dry or normal skin, AHA can help improve smoothness and radiance. However, overuse may cause stinging or redness, especially for sensitive skin.

BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid)
BHA is oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate deep into pores. This makes it especially effective for oily and acne-prone skin. BHA helps dissolve excess oil, unclog pores, and reduce blackheads and breakouts.
Salicylic acid is the most common BHA. While effective, it can be drying if used too often. Oily skin still needs hydration alongside BHA exfoliation.

PHA (Polyhydroxy Acid)
PHA is the gentlest form of chemical exfoliation. It has a larger molecular structure, which means it exfoliates slowly and causes less irritation. PHA also provides hydration, making it ideal for sensitive skin, rosacea-prone skin, or beginners who are new to exfoliation.
If your skin reacts easily or feels uncomfortable after exfoliating, PHA is often the safest option.

How Often Should You Exfoliate?
No matter your skin type, exfoliating too often can weaken the skin barrier. Most people should exfoliate only one to two times per week. Signs of over-exfoliation include redness, tightness, breakouts, and increased sensitivity.

How to Choose the Right One

• Dry or dull skin: AHA

• Oily or acne-prone skin: BHA

• Sensitive or easily irritated skin: PHA

Listening to your skin is more important than following trends. Start slowly and adjust based on how your skin responds.